The Great Basin Costume Society: November 2010

Ladies, this post is for you. With the GBCS Holiday party coming up December 18th, it's time to start putting together your costumes.

Regency describes the period of English history from about 1800-1820. In France it was known as "Empire" or the Napoleanic Era, and in the fresh new USA it's referred to as the Federalist period. No matter your country of origin, this period of dress has common trends and themes. Let's take a look, and come up with some ideas for Winter-time Regency clothing appropriate for an evening party.

At the turn of the 19th century, the fabric of choice was very thin cotton muslin, and this nearly sheer fabric was generally white, and often featured delicate embroidery, sprig printing (block printing, a new technology), or subtle striping. Light colors were favored over dark, and in the infant years of the Regency, these thing white muslins were worn in both Summer and Winter.

"Sari" gowns were very popular, inspired by the intense
colors and beautiful designs of India

Later in the Regency we begin to see heavier silk fabrics coming back into style, along with bold colors. These gowns featured Indian and Asian inspired embroidery, beading, and decoration, and could be very complex in the cuts of the bodice, but still featured the straight-front skirts, and gathered backs.

For Winter
Cool-weather wear included the pelisse, the spencer, and the open robe.

A green pelisse with much detail

A slate grey/blue pelisse

The pelisse is a long coat, often made of wool or velvet, that completely covers the dress, and was long-sleeved.

A spencer with military detailing and textured fabric

A quilted silk spencer

The spencer is a short jacket worn just over the bodice, fastening under the bust, and allowing the skirts of the gown underneath to show.

The Lady of Portland House's open robe, from Janet Arnold's
pattern (Patterns of Fashion 1)

An extant open robe from the the late 1790s, early 1800s.

The open robe is an over dress, with short, 3/4 or long sleeves, the drapes the full length of the gown, but is open in front, closing with a belt under the bust.

The pelisse and spencer are for outside, travelling, and riding, whereas the open robe is more of an evening or indoor garment.

Ballgowns and Evening Wear
A ballgown would be the appropriate garment for evening. These were often silk, taffeta, shiny, luxurious fabrics, with glitzy details, lace overlays, or in stunning bold colors. Here are some beautiful examples of ballgowns from the later Regency:

Hair, Hats, and Head Things
Regency hair styling was relatively simple in comparison to other periods. Think Greek and Roman - the hair was curled and pulled up into a high, short ponytail or a bun. The front of the hair was allowed to stay loose and fall in short ringlets over the ears and forehead. JaneAustenWorld has an excellent article on hairstyles and accessories.